Shoppin Hunt

Quality Control

1. Measuring Garment Dimensions

Ensuring that the dimensions of garments comply with their specified sizes is especially important when a part or all of the garment manufacturing process is done by hand, which can result in large margins of error compared to the precision of machined cutting and sewing.

Specifying tolerances for garment dimensions

Tolerances for acceptable margins of error can vary for different parts of the garment, depending on their significance to the entire garment. For example, a sleeve being too long or short by ? inch may be an acceptable margin of error and still pass, but ½ an inch difference would be marked as a fail.

2. Physical tests of buttons, zippers and other accessories

A zip that comes off after little use could indicate that the manufacturer is using inferior accessories, or a button coming loose could identify weak stitching.

These are defects which QC inspectors should look for with physical testing methods such as ‘pull tests’ and ‘fatigue tests’ on garment accessories such as zippers, snaps, ribbons and elastic. The tests are performed on a designated number of garments in each batch.

Pull test

Predominantly used to test zippers, a QC inspector uses a gauge to pull the accessory with a predetermined amount of force for 10 seconds.

Fatigue test

This test determines whether the accessory will last as long as intended under normal use by the consumer. A typical test on a snaps or buttons would be to repeatedly button and unbutton the accessory 50 times and check for any damage to the garment after testing.

Stretch test

Testing elastic bands and straps for proper elasticity and to check whether the elastic or stitching stands up to being pulled or stretched. Stretch tests only need to be carried out on a small selection of finished garments.

3. Fabric Density & Composition Tests

Testing the density or thickness of fabrics used in garment production determines whether the fabric meets the correct quality standards. A fabric that’s too thin or not dense enough could mean your manufacturer isn’t using fabric of the quality you have specified to ensure the garment has a significant lifetime under normal wearing and washing.

There are three fabric density and composition tests which QC inspectors can carry out on site:

Fabric GSM check

QC inspectors use an electronic balance to measure the grams per square meter (GSM) of a sample of the fabric and compare that measurement with the customer’s specifications.

Stitches per inch (SPI) check

QC inspectors simply count the number of stitches in a square inch of sample garments. The higher the SPI, the more durable the fabric and the less likely it will stretch or fall apart during normal wear and washing.

Material composition check

Verifying the composition of fabrics used in garment production is important due to the legal requirements of correctly labeling garments, as well as ensuring that the manufacturer is not using inferior materials. If for example a garment label states that the garment is 100% Cotton or not, this must be verified by qualified QC inspectors. If subsequent inspections by authorities reveal that the fabric is not as labeled, you could face fines and other penalties.

An experienced QC inspector can judge the composition of fabrics from a hands-on inspection carried out at the factory. 

4. Label Verification

As mentioned above, correct labeling is essential for complying with garment labeling requirements for destination markets in all countries. Incorrect or missing labeling could mean fines for the importer as well as having the product rejected by Customs.

There are specific labeling requirements for wool, leather and fur garments, as well as for footwear, for which the materials used in each part of the footwear item must be specified.

5. Packaging inspection

One of the final on-site inspections for garments before shipping from the factory is to ensure the packaging is suitable for the garments so they’ll reach their destination in good condition.

Testing for DMF is a chemical test which should be carried out in a lab. Silica gels are a safe desiccant sachet ingredient. However, some manufacturers may use Dimethyl Fumarate (DMF) instead, which is banned in most developed destination markets due to its high toxicity and the allergic reactions consumers can suffer from contaminated garments.